How to Construct a Real Cool Wooden Laminated Four Wheeler Van Toy
A multi-layered truck made of Brazil wood and oak, with yellow cedar inlay.
TOOLS
Handsaw
Coping saw
Hand drill
hand-drill
⅜-inch drill bit
⅛-inch drill bit
C-clamps
Wood file
Wood chisel
Wood gouge
Ruler
T square
Graph paper
Carbon paper
Pencil and paper
Coping saw
Hand drill
hand-drill
⅜-inch drill bit
⅛-inch drill bit
C-clamps
Wood file
Wood chisel
Wood gouge
Ruler
T square
Graph paper
Carbon paper
Pencil and paper
MATERIALS
Wood
(Use Brazil wood or other dark hardwood for 3 of the bands, oak or other light hardwood for the other 3 bands. Use yellow cedar or other light- colored softwood for inlay. Wheels, axles, and cotter pegs are to be cut from dowels.)
Vans: (6) 1 by 9 by 9 inches
Wheels: (4) 2 inches in diameter by ½ inch
Axles: (2) ⅜ inch in diameter by 7 inches
Cotter pegs: (4) ⅛ inch in diameter by 1 inch
Inlay: (2) ¼ by 3 by 3 inches
Glue
Sandpaper, coarse, medium, and fine grades
Finishing materials (See instructions)
(Use Brazil wood or other dark hardwood for 3 of the bands, oak or other light hardwood for the other 3 bands. Use yellow cedar or other light- colored softwood for inlay. Wheels, axles, and cotter pegs are to be cut from dowels.)
Vans: (6) 1 by 9 by 9 inches
Wheels: (4) 2 inches in diameter by ½ inch
Axles: (2) ⅜ inch in diameter by 7 inches
Cotter pegs: (4) ⅛ inch in diameter by 1 inch
Inlay: (2) ¼ by 3 by 3 inches
Glue
Sandpaper, coarse, medium, and fine grades
Finishing materials (See instructions)
THE TOY
This easy-to-make van requires little sawing and relies on the maker's ability to laminate alternating light- and dark-colored woods to produce a truck with a ribbon-wood effect.
It is styled after the familiar boxlike, very functional milk vans, common to all neighborhoods where delivery of dairy products is still carried on.
It is styled after the familiar boxlike, very functional milk vans, common to all neighborhoods where delivery of dairy products is still carried on.
This is a good introductory project for the woodworker who wishes to approach wood chiseling and gouging for the first time, but does so gingerly until proficiency with the tools is gained.
The laminated woods make this toy a very heavy one, similar to a laminated chef's block. Both images (top & bottom) indicate dowels or large wooden buttons for wheels.
The laminated woods make this toy a very heavy one, similar to a laminated chef's block. Both images (top & bottom) indicate dowels or large wooden buttons for wheels.
Try to locate an old rolling pin, cut it down to wheel size, and use it in place of the above two options for a more substantial set of wheels all the way around.
All saw cuts are at right angles to one another. Do not overlap saw cuts, as this creates unsightly kerfs in the wood.
All saw cuts are at right angles to one another. Do not overlap saw cuts, as this creates unsightly kerfs in the wood.
PROCEDURE
Plan and draw all pieces of wood to be laminated on graph paper. Transfer the measurements from the paper to each piece of wood, using carbon paper, a T square, and a pencil or carpenter's scribe.
Saw all pieces of wood to size. Sandwich the woods, alternating the light and dark pieces. Apply glue to both sides of the inner pieces with thin, even strokes, covering each surface completely.
Clamp the laminated block tightly with C-clamps (or Jorgenson wood clamps if available). Wipe off any glue that is oozing from the four edges of the toy.
After the block has thoroughly cured, make further cuts in the following manner: All horizontal cuts are to be 1 inch in depth; all vertical cuts are to be 2 inches in height.
This covers the necessary "staircase" appearance for the front bumper, motor compartment, and cab, but these are not critical dimensions. Modify them if your cab, motor, etc., are to be either taller or shallower.
File all edges with a wood file to eliminate sharp surfaces and to give the van a "softer” appearance.
Lay the van on its side and clamp it to the work table. Draw in the peripheral edges of the areas to be inlaid and begin to gouge the wood within the lines.
Use a chisel to begin the cuts, making sure that the sliver or paring does not extend beyond the penciled margins. This type of accident can usually be prevented by pounding a straight-edge chisel to a depth of ⅛-inch along the pencil lines.
The paring will break off at this line as the sliver comes up. Use a wood mallet to tap the wood-cutting tools. The recessed area or incised area is to be 1/8-inch deep. Sand with medium sandpaper to bring the inlay area to a flat, even surface.
Cut the piece of wood to be used for inlay, sand one side, and apply glue to the other. Position the wood in place and clamp. Notice that the cab window is left exposed; no wood is inlaid here.
Repeat the same procedure on the other side of the van. Then drill the necessary holes for the dowel axles. Before inserting the axles, sand the entire block of wood.
This poses no problem since protruding parts have not been assembled. Work from the coarser sandpapers through the very fine and sand with the grain to remove saw blade and rasp marks on the wood's surface.
Insert the axles and drill holes in the wheels to fit the axle diameter. If the axle binds inside the block, sand the rod so that it will spin freely. Apply wheels and small cotter pegs. The pegs must be glued to stay in place.
As with the other wheel toys, binding between the chassis and wheel can be eliminated by using a small, round piece of leather as a washer. This of course must be put in place before the cotter peg is inserted on the opposing side of the already glued end.
Saw all pieces of wood to size. Sandwich the woods, alternating the light and dark pieces. Apply glue to both sides of the inner pieces with thin, even strokes, covering each surface completely.
Clamp the laminated block tightly with C-clamps (or Jorgenson wood clamps if available). Wipe off any glue that is oozing from the four edges of the toy.
After the block has thoroughly cured, make further cuts in the following manner: All horizontal cuts are to be 1 inch in depth; all vertical cuts are to be 2 inches in height.
This covers the necessary "staircase" appearance for the front bumper, motor compartment, and cab, but these are not critical dimensions. Modify them if your cab, motor, etc., are to be either taller or shallower.
File all edges with a wood file to eliminate sharp surfaces and to give the van a "softer” appearance.
Lay the van on its side and clamp it to the work table. Draw in the peripheral edges of the areas to be inlaid and begin to gouge the wood within the lines.
Use a chisel to begin the cuts, making sure that the sliver or paring does not extend beyond the penciled margins. This type of accident can usually be prevented by pounding a straight-edge chisel to a depth of ⅛-inch along the pencil lines.
The paring will break off at this line as the sliver comes up. Use a wood mallet to tap the wood-cutting tools. The recessed area or incised area is to be 1/8-inch deep. Sand with medium sandpaper to bring the inlay area to a flat, even surface.
Cut the piece of wood to be used for inlay, sand one side, and apply glue to the other. Position the wood in place and clamp. Notice that the cab window is left exposed; no wood is inlaid here.
Repeat the same procedure on the other side of the van. Then drill the necessary holes for the dowel axles. Before inserting the axles, sand the entire block of wood.
This poses no problem since protruding parts have not been assembled. Work from the coarser sandpapers through the very fine and sand with the grain to remove saw blade and rasp marks on the wood's surface.
Insert the axles and drill holes in the wheels to fit the axle diameter. If the axle binds inside the block, sand the rod so that it will spin freely. Apply wheels and small cotter pegs. The pegs must be glued to stay in place.
As with the other wheel toys, binding between the chassis and wheel can be eliminated by using a small, round piece of leather as a washer. This of course must be put in place before the cotter peg is inserted on the opposing side of the already glued end.
FINISHING
A good deal of the surface space of this toy is devoted to end grain (revealing a cross section of the original log) and inlay.
If the van has been thoroughly sanded until the paper no longer serves its purpose, use coarse to fine steel wool, which can easily be maneuvered into the tighter angles and crevices.
When all abrasive work is completed, use cheesecloth to rub a good amount of paste wax vigorously into the end grain and surface grain. Much of it will be absorbed owing to the porosity of the mixed woods. Buff the surface, frequently exchanging soiled cloths for clean ones.
If the van has been thoroughly sanded until the paper no longer serves its purpose, use coarse to fine steel wool, which can easily be maneuvered into the tighter angles and crevices.
When all abrasive work is completed, use cheesecloth to rub a good amount of paste wax vigorously into the end grain and surface grain. Much of it will be absorbed owing to the porosity of the mixed woods. Buff the surface, frequently exchanging soiled cloths for clean ones.
If you intend to lacquer the van, apply several thin, even coats, allowing each successive coat to thoroughly dry before applying additional ones. Steel-wool (grade 0000) the surface to remove bubbles and pops in the lacquer.
Other sealers and finishing solutions, such as shellac, varnish, varathane, and stains, may also be used to seal or alter the surface color of the wood.
The van should be allowed to dry in a dust-free atmosphere for up to twenty four hours before it can be rolled onto the driveway and handled.
Other sealers and finishing solutions, such as shellac, varnish, varathane, and stains, may also be used to seal or alter the surface color of the wood.
The van should be allowed to dry in a dust-free atmosphere for up to twenty four hours before it can be rolled onto the driveway and handled.